| Choose Your Layout | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Ogre Drilling | Gryphon Series Drilling | Gargoyle Series Drilling | Centaur Series Drilling |
Centuar AMB Core (Bronze Pearl, Blue Particle, Hot Pink/Blue Solid)
To Layout the AMB properly, you must first mark the "Virtual Mass Bias" by drawing a line from the 1/4" locater pin on the backside around the ball, through the 1/2" Flip Pin (Black pin on the Bronze Pearl AMB, white Pin on the Particle AMB). Mark an "x" 180 degrees from the AMB pin (exact opposite side of the ball) 12 1/2" from the AMB pin which puts the "x" 6 3/4" from the flip pin. This virtual Mass Bias point can then be treated using the same general rules that apply to other typical mass bias spots.
Various Layouts
Pin A - Most Length, with little or no flare - (Pin Located 5.5" Plus From PAP)
- MB 1
- Long and then arc
- MB 2
- Little quicker recovery than #1
- MB 3
- Long, strong - quick rev at breakpoint
- MB 4
- good length, earlier break than 1-3
- MB 5
- Earliest breakpoint possible with Pin A (possible hook/set)
Pin - B Above Average Length, 2-3" flare - (Pin located 4-5" from PAP)
- MB 1
- Long and then arc
- MB 2
- Little quicker recovery than #1
- MB 3
- strong - quick rev at breakpoint
- MB 4
- Earliest possible with Pin B (fast recovery from oil to dry)
Pin D - Less Length (Less than C), 2-3" flare - (Pin located 1.5-2.5" from PAP)
- MB 1 & MB 2
- early roll in midlane, arc reaction
- MB 3
- midlane grab, with stronger break than 1 & 2
Pin E - Earliest Roll, with little or no flare - (Pin located on PAP)
- MB 1
- early, heavy roll - with tame backend
Layouts are general rules and will appear different with the varying PAP locations of each bowler. If necessary, place weight holes where needed to achieve the desire static weights- on the axis for a smooth break, 1.5-2.5" off axis for stronger break.
Warning: Do NOT put holes beyond the Vertical Axis Line - the high flare produced by the Centaur-AMB core may cause the track to hit the weight holes.
REMEMBER - the AMB particle generate an extreme amount of traction on the lanes. Pin Positions D & E are NOT suggested unless the bowler is a very low rev, and high velocity player.
Surface Finish
The final step is to throw the ball and adjust the coverstock accordingly. The Finish on the balls plays a major part in the reaction of the ball. The Bronze Centaur-AMB Pearl is factory polished to around 1500. The Blue AMB particle is wet sanded 320 grit. The Hot Pink/Blue Solid is matte finished to around 1000 grit. If the balls are not reacting the way you want it to try the following:
- Skidding too Long & Not Finishing Enough - dull the surface with sandpaper or scotchbrite to the desired grit. Try it in small steps because it may not take much change to see a big difference - results in earlier grab and more overall hook (too dull may cause the ball to roll too soon and lose some of the back end reaction).
- Hooking early & not enough snap - polish the ball to the desired finish using a polishing machine or a polishing compound. Again, do it in moderate steps because it doesn't take much to see the difference. - results in more length and more snap(Too high of gloss may cause the ball to go too long and not get into a roll soon enough)
- We don't recommend polishing the AMB particle because it defeats the main plan for that ball - heavy oil and other visionary balls would perform better on conditions without a flood of oil. however, if it hooks too much or burns up too early and you insist on trying to use it, it will polish for more length and pop on the back by retaining some of it's energy. This won't ruin the ball and can be resurfaced with 240 grit to break through new surface and particles, then finish with wet sanding 320 to return to the box condition.
- The AMB Solid is extremely versatile and can cover the largest variety of lane conditions with simple adjustments to the cover. The AMB line allows a player to cover all conditions. The AMB particle for floods, the AMB Pearl for lighter conditions, and the AMB solid covers everything in between.
Gargoyle Drillings (Green Pearl, Granite,Violet, & Slate Blue)
| Basic Layouts | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Mass Bias | Label Drilling | Leverage Drilling | Axis Drilling |
| To choose your variation of the basic layouts above follow the steps below. | |||
| Step 1 | Step 2 | Step 3 |
Mass Bias Location/Use
You may notice that the inner portion of the core has a slice off the side. This does create a mild mass bias that is located 6 3/4" from the pin in a direct line through the CG. We have not marked this spot because it is a minor mass bias that mainly is used to help achieve better pin-out locations. It can be drilled with great success by completely ignoring this spot. If extreme fine tuning is desired then this spot can be treated like any other mass bias location and drilled accordingly. Again, this will only make very minor adjustments which may not even be detectable by most people.
Label Drilling
Leverage Drilling
This provides good length and hook with the following back end reactions:
(/)1:30 - Hard Arc
(|) 12:00 (stacked) - Strong Reaction
(\) 10:30 - Earlier & Controlled
Axis Drilling
Step #1 -Flip Pin Location
Decide what type of reaction you are looking for and place the 1/2" Flip Pin in the appropriate location. This is a big percentage of how the ball reacts.
Extra Length: place the pin closer to your fingers:
- A - Lower towards center of grip for earlier grab - *If the pin is placed too low the ball may flare over the finger holes.*
- B - Higher over the fingers adds length - *If placed to high for certain individuals the ball may skid to long.*
Heavy / Early Roll - place the pin closer to the axis. This makes the ball roll sooner and provides less flare and back end snap.
Step #2 - CG Location
Once you have decided on the Flip Pin location then you can adjust the ball reaction further by changing CG location (center of gravity).
1:30 (/) - (Strong Arc) - place the CG near the midline.
12:00 (|) - (Stacked) - place directly below the flip pin. * May not be good for extreme wet/dry conditions depending on the player.*
10:30 (\) - (Heavy Roll) - kick the CG to the right of the centerline. This makes the ball roll sooner. It will produce more heavy forward roll and a controlled back end. On some conditions the ball will hook and then set up.*Will probably require weight hole to make the static weights legal.*
Step #3 - Surface Finish
The final step is to throw the ball and adjust the coverstock accordingly. The finish on the balls plays a major part in the reaction of the ball. The Green Pearl Gargoyle is factory polished around 1500 grit while the Granite is factory polished by wet sanding with 320 grit sand paper. If the balls are not reacting the way you want it to, try the following:
Green Pearl & Violet Gargoyle
- Skidding too long & not finishing enough - dull the surface with sandpaper or scothbrite to the desired grit. Try it in small steps because it may not take much change to see a big difference - results in earlier grab and more overall hook(Too dull may cause the ball to roll too soon and lose some of the back end reaction)
- Hooking early & not enough snap - polish the ball to the desired finish using a polishing machine or a polishing compound. Again, do it in moderate steps because it doesn't take much to see the difference. - results in more length and more snap(Too high of gloss may cause the ball to go too long and not get into a roll soon enough)
- The Green Gargoyle is designed to go longer than the violet but snap more. The violet starts a little sooner than the Green but is a little more even and controlled
Granite
- Skidding too long & not finishing enough - dull the surface with sandpaper or scothbrite to the desired grit. Try it in small steps because it may not take much change to see a big difference - results in earlier grab and more overall hook(The duller it is, the earlier it will hook but with a more controlled back end reaction)
- Hooking early & too much - polish the ball to the desired finish using a polishing machine or polishing compound. Again, do it in moderate steps and because it doesn't take much to see the difference. - results in more length and less overall hook (this is good if the ball rolls out or if you need more length before it starts hooking) **For a particle ball, this one polishes easily and provides more length and stronger back end. the duller the Granite is the more it acts like a particle ball. The smoother it's polished the more it acts like a reactive.
- To keep it working consistent - (if dull) it may require cleaning frequently with alcohol or hot detergent water (Dawn) and a scotchbrite pad. The particles are non-abrasive and located throughout the cover so no special equipment is needed to resurface the ball and cleaning with alcohol or soapy water will not damage the ball or its reaction no matter how many times you clean it or sand it.
Slate Blue
- Skidding too long & not finishing enough - dull the surface with sandpaper or scothbrite to the desired grit. Try it in small steps because it may not take much change to see a big difference - results in earlier grab and more overall hook
- Hooking early & too much - polish the ball to the desired finishusing a polishing machine or polishing compound. **Polishing the hard urethane slate gargoyle will result in more length and less overall hook - unlike reactive balls that snap more when polished**
Step #3 - Surface Finish
The final step is to throw the ball and adjust the coverstock accordingly. The finish on the balls plays a major part in the reaction of the ball. The Frankie May Gryphon is factory finished to about 400 grit. The G-3 Gryphon is polished to around 1500. If the balls are not reacting the way you want it to, try the following:
- Skidding too long & not finishing enough - dull the surface with sandpaper or scothbrite to the desired grit. Try it in small steps because it may not take much change to see a big difference - results in earlier grab and more overall hook(Too dull may cause the ball to roll too soon and lose some of the back end reaction)
- Hooking early & not enough snap - polish the ball to the desired finish using a polishing machine or a polishing compound. Again, do it in moderate steps because it doesn't take much to see the difference. - results in more length and more snap(Too high of gloss may cause the ball to go too long and not get into a roll soon enough)
- The G-3 is designed to go longer and snap more, while the Frankie May is designed for an earlier roll with a strong but not quite snappy back end. However, the general rules are the same to make the appropriate reaction changes. The Frankie May is a very versatile ball and can cover almost all but the streme conditions with minor surface changes.
Step #3 - Surface Finish
The final step is to throw the ball and adjust the coverstock accordingly. The finish on the balls plays a major part in the reaction of the ball. The Orange/Black Ogre solid is factory finished to about 600 grit. If the balls are not reacting the way you want it to, try the following:
- Skidding too long & not finishing enough - dull the surface with sandpaper or scotchbrite to the desired grit. Try it in small steps because it may not take much change to see a big difference - results in earlier grab and more overall hook(Too dull may cause the ball to roll too soon and lose some of the back end reaction)
- Hooking early & not enough snap - polish the ball to the desired finish using a polishing machine or a polishing compound. Again, do it in moderate steps because it doesn't take much to see the difference. - results in more length and more snap(Too high of gloss may cause the ball to go too long and not get into a roll soon enough)
