First and foremost, because strikes occur more often (at the pro level, I'd estimate that two more strikes per game are thrown), the importance of good spare shooting has diminished. I've always compared spare shooting to putting in golf. Even though some golfers can hit the ball much farther than others, they still have to be able to putt well in order to win. In bowling, with easy lane conditions and strong bowling balls, the better bowlers really only have to be able to make single-pin spares. Secondly, because balls hit with such force, common splits of the past (like the 5-7) have almost become extinct. All-time great Billy Hardwick could probably make a 5-7 split at an 80% success rate. (Of course, he had a lot of practice at it.) while many bowlers remember Hardwick's great ability to strike in a the clutch, it was his excellent spare making that put him in the position for those strikes to count.

While I agree with your assertion that scores would go down if heavier pins were used, I do not agree that it would negate the effect of the new bowling balls, or make the game more fair. I believe that the strong-hitting balls would have even more impact on heavier pins, penalizing those who throw the ball at a lower speed more than the high-rev players. It's my opinion that if the goal is to lower scores, you must make changes in lane surface, lane conditioning, pins and balls.

The reason you see bowlers employing the no-slide technique is that it's easier to get more power and more hook on the ball when you use your plant leg as a fulcrum for the arm to "pass through" during the downswing and release. The main negative of this technique is that it puts a great deal of stress on the shoulder, eventually causing problems that may not be correctable. I've always been a believer in the long slide because it allows such a smooth release of the ball, as exemplified by the great Mr. Holman.

The first area to check is the drilling of your thumb hole. Many pro shops still employ too much reverse pitch in the thumb, causing the bowler to grab the ball during the release. A second problem may be that the thumb hole is drilled to large, again causing one to grab the ball. If the problem is intermittent, it could be a timing issue, with your swing getting to the release point ahead of your slide foot. You may also be bending over to far at the waist during the release. Try to bend with your knee, not your waist during the release. First, check the ball then check your timing.

The power of observation and a willingness to experiment are the two important traits for any bowler. While bowling, watch all the other players and their ball reactions. This includes watching shots that totally miss the target. Sometimes a ball that misses the target will hook back into the pocket. If that happens, try a shot that's near that hook area. Secondly, try shots in areas that are five or ten boards away from your normal shot. Sometimes this can lead to finding a shot on a pair of lanes that play differently than normal. Most importantly, you must be able to know when you've thrown the ball well and when you've thrown it poorly. Never make an adjustment based on a poor shot -- unless that poor shot ends up in the pocket.

ERRATA: In the March issue, I wrote that no lane conditioner is applied on the first 3 feet of the lane (beyond the foul line). What actually should have been written is that no conditioner is applied on the first 6 - 8 inches of the lane. An astute reader caught this mistake and should be complimented for pointing it out. We apologize for any confusion.